10 April 2023
After 30 years of Italian cooking at neighborhood restaurants throughout the Bay Area, chef Eddie Robles has learned a thing or two about sauces. No. 1: the creamier, the better. No. 2: the more, the better.
Old-school Italians could loudly protest those assertions. In Europe’s Italia, many “creamy” sauces don’t include heavy cream, just lovingly, achingly slow-mixed cheese with starchy pasta water, butter, eggs or olive oil.
And most traditional Italian dishes spare the sauce. As with bread and butter, the pasta or protein should be the star. There should be just enough sauce — or sugo — to lightly coat each bite of the main ingredient.
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